There's now a Bookbinding Message
Board HERE
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How
It All Started
Perhaps
it has its roots in my childhood, when my Mum wouldn't let me
buy secondhand books because "you don't know where they've
been and they're full of germs!" Whatever the reason, as
an adult I've always loved old books and, once I was old enough,
began to collect them. Inevitably, not all of the ones that
interested me were in pristine condition, but for a long time,
there was nothing I could do about it. Then I heard that bookbinding
classes were available in my area.
Take
a love of old books, a liking for handicrafts and a convenient
bookbinding class and you have a match made in heaven! That's
how I got started back in the 1980s.
Bookbinding
isn't a quick operation, each stage needs care and attention,
but there's a tremendous satisfaction in turning a tattered
old volume into a smart book once again.
Over
the years I've gradually acquired my own equipment and now have
all the resources I need to bind books from start to finish.
For me, bookbinding is and always will be, primarily a hobby,
although I'm beginning to wonder just how many more bookcases
I can fit into my house!
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I'm
gradually building up a collection of old cookery books and was
delighted when I picked up a rather battered copy of Mrs Rundell's
"Domestic Cookery" very cheaply. She was in a bad way
when I first found her, but she's scrubbed up a treat! I was able
to save the old spine and the engraving on the front cover and
re-use them. The cover engraving has been inlaid into the full
leather binding. The headbands are hand sewn.
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The
Juvenile Travellers had no spine at all when I first met them.
Published in 1811, the book had been bound as cheaply as possible
with a paper spine and blue paper boards, so it was amazing that
it had lasted at all. It's now been half bound in green calf and
finished with hand marbled paper. As is clear from the "before"
picture, the spine actually tilted and this has been disguised
so that the top now appears level.
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A
brand new binding is only half the story. Sometimes an old binding
can be restored.
I
collect the annual volumes of the Girl's Own Paper and was lucky
enough to pick up several volumes very cheaply when the owner
of a bookshop was selling off his stock. I hadn't intended to
buy this one, but in the end, I felt sorry for it left all alone
on the shelf and brought it home with me. Many, many hours later
it was, once again, looking smart.
If
I were to convert the hours I spent working on it into an hourly
rate, the cost would run easily into 3 figures, well in excess
of the book's value, which isn't high, so it wasn't a cost effective
exercise, but I don't care!
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Types
of Binding

A
new case was made for this book, with some of the original cover
inlaid.

This
book has been quarter bound in two contrasting
green cloths.
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There
are several ways in which a book can be rebound. Modern books
generally have a cloth case. If a book had an attractive pictorial
front board, depending upon the condition, it is sometimes possible
to preserve the cloth and glue it onto the new case. See how
a book is bound in cloth HERE
Antiquarian
books are more likely to have had a whole or partial leather
binding. Rebinding using leather is more time consuming, but
the end result is far more attractive than a plain cloth case.
A
quarter leather binding is when the spine is leather and the
rest of the boards are either cloth or marbled paper, although
it is not a good idea to used marbled paper in this instance
as it is not as robust as cloth and the corners are likely to
wear much more quickly. Books can also be quarter bound in cloth
rather than leather. This can look very effective if contrasting
cloths are used for spine and boards.
A
half leather binding is when the spine and corners of the book
are leather and the rest of the boards are either cloth or marbled
paper. See how it's done HERE
As in the quarter bindings, cloth can be substituted for the
leather.
Three
quarter bindings aren't seen very often and the term is often
mistakenly used to describe a half leather binding. Instead
of just the corners being reinforced with leather, a strip of
leather, is put down the entire outer edge of the book.
A
full leather binding is exactly what it says, the whole of the
case is covered in leather.
Some
old leather bound books have raised bands on the spine, some
don't. The practice originated because up until the early 1800s,
books were sewn onto cords which stood proud from the spine.
The leather in those days was glued directly to the spine and
moulded round the cords, creating the bands. In the early 1800s,
it became the practice to make sawcuts in the spine and the
cords rested in these, so that they no longer stood proud, although
the leather was still glued directly onto the spine. Later still,
a new technique was introduced which avoided glueing the leather
directly onto the spine and thus added strength and durability
to the binding. This technique is still in use today. Raised
bands, if still desired, are now created artificially. The convention
these days is to have 5 raised bands on a spine, although if
you look around a secondhand bookshop you will find that not
all binders actually follow convention.
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1.
A cloth binding |
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2.
Quarter bound, with leather and cloth |
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3.
Half bound, with leather and cloth |
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4.
Half bound, with leather and marbled paper and raised bands |
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5.
Full leather |
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6.
Three quarter leather |
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Not
the best picture of me, but a good one of my "supervisor"
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Please note, at the moment I am only
taking commissions from previous customers. Sorry!
Although
this is my hobby, I do like the idea of making it self-financing.
I'm not looking for a lot of work, but an occasional commission
every now and again would be welcome.
The
prices shown are a guide only. They are for basic rebinding of
books of average size ie roughly 8" x 6" x 1" (20cm
x 15cm x 2.5cm) with plain endpapers and a title on the spine.
They do not include restitching, paper repairs or any other specialised
work. Whilst they do include leather, this would normally be goatskin.
Please
note 11" x 8½" x 3" ( 28cm x 21.5cm x 7.5cm)
is the maximum size with which my equipment can cope.
From
7th June 2009 20% of the prices quoted will be donated to PDSA,
Britain's largest veterinary charity. For more information about
my involvement with PDSA click here.
Cloth
case |
from
£25 |
¼
cloth with contrasting cloth or machine marbled paper |
from
£30 |
½
cloth with
contrasting cloth or machine marbled paper |
from
£35 |
¼
leather with either cloth or machine marbled paper |
from
£40 |
¼
leather with cloth/m-marbled paper and raised bands |
from
£45 |
½
leather with either cloth or machine marbled paper |
from
£50 |
½
leather with cloth/m-marbled paper and raised bands |
from
£55 |
Full
leather |
from
£60 |
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Sadly,
after a very long and active life, my "helper"
is no longer with me.
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There
are no prices for repairs as, particularly with leather bindings,
it's not possible to assess the work involved sufficiently well
from pictures, so I prefer not to take them on.
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Extras
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Machine
marbled endpapers |
from
£2.50
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Hand
marbled paper on boards |
from
£2.50
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Hand
marbled end papers |
from
£5
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Millboard
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from
£1.25
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Calfskin
spine |
from
£2.50
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Calfskin
spine and corners |
from
£5
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Full
calfskin |
from
£10
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Sewing
and paper repairs |
£10
an hour
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Slip
case |
from
£7.50
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Once a book
is finished, I will email you pictures of it. On receipt and clearance
of your payment, either by cheque or via Paypal, I will return
it to you via Royal Mail's Recorded Delivery. If you live locally
(North East England), you are welcome to call round.
Postage and
packing will be at cost.

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The
small hot foil printer I use for titles. Despite its size, I've
had some success decorating spines, although it takes a lot of time
and patience and is not included in the bookbinding services I offer.
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Will
the value of my book increase? |
That
depends. The value of an antiquarian book in poor condition
will certainly be increased if it is sympathetically rebound,
although it will never come close to the price of the same
book with an original binding in good condition. The cost
of a rebind or repair added to the price you paid for the
book, may still come to more than the book's worth. Modern
books in bad shape are really only worth rebinding if they
have a value to the owner that isn't financial. |
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How
long does it take to rebind a book? |
This
varies tremendously and is difficult to assess as a book often
has to be left for a number of hours between one step and
another to let glue dry or to be pressed. Consequently the
work is done over several days. In addition, some books work
with you, some fight you every inch of the way! I estimate
that an average time for me to rebind a book in cloth is 2½
hours. Leather bindings take me 4 to 5 hours. If restitching
and repairing is necessary, another 2 or more hours can be
added to this. (A full time bookbinder running a business,
would undoubtedly be able to do the job more quickly, but
his hourly rate would be a great deal higher than mine!) |
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Why
repair instead of rebind? |
I
don't believe in rebinding for the sake of it. Sometimes it
is only the spine of a book that is damaged. It is often possible
to replace this, but to keep the original boards. If a book
is old, it will have a greater value if it has been successfully
repaired than if it has been completely rebound. It can take
as long to complete a repair as it does to rebind a book. |
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When
is hand marbled paper appropriate?
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The
quick answer is "whenever you choose", although
it can look inappropriate on some modern books. The first
machine printed marbled paper started to appear around the
mid to late 1800s. Prior to that it was all hand marbled,
and I always think it is a shame to replace original hand
marbled paper with machine made. The colours of hand marbled
paper tend to be brighter and more vibrant and can be quite
a surprise to those used only to seeing faded 200 year old
hand marbled paper.
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What
is millboard? |
The
boards of books are normally made from ordinary greyboard
and this is perfectly adequate. Millboard is similar to greyboard,
but much denser. The corners of a book are less vulnerable
to damage over time because of its greater strength. It is
useful if the book requires a strong cover with minimum thickness.
Some prefer millboard rather than greyboard on leather bound
books. |
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Why
do books have headbands? |
Most
people, when they remove a book from a bookshelf pull it out
from the top of the spine. The headbands strengthen this part
of the book, particularly when the spine is leatherbound and
the leather extends over the top of the headband. My "speciality"
is hand sewn headbands, simply because I enjoy doing them
and can co-ordinate the colours I use more precisely with
the rest of the binding. |
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If
you would like a quote, email me some photos, together with a
description of the book including size and condition and the type
of work you would like me to do.
I
can scan and email samples of marbled papers, cloth and leathers
although I cannot guarantee complete accuracy as far as colour
reproduction is concerned.
My
email address is ann@catsup.co.uk
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Copyright
©Ann Dickinson 2010
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